The Chezeaux domaine was built on the foundations of an ancient estate just south of Nuits Saint Georges in northern Burgundy. Bernard Chezeaux took control of the domaine in 1971, but mostly sold off his wine to negociants. When Bernard passed away in 1993, he was succeeded by his son, Jérôme, who focused on bottling their wines at the estate. Jérôme also acquired some plots that had belonged to his wife's family, bringing the total up to about 12 hectares. The plots are scattered throughout the villages or Prémeaux, Nuits Saint Georges, Vougeot and Vosne Romanée and include some of the most prized sites in the area.
The vines are impeccably tended and Jérôme's work in the cellar is equally thoughtful. He follows traditional winemaking methods and is devotedly "non-interventionist" with his winemaking. Wines are made using only indigenous yeasts with fermentation and aging occurring in small barrel - a quarter of which are replaced each year. All of the wines are bottled without filtration after aging at least 18 months. Across the board, Jérôme's wines are majestic and pure.
Starting with the 2011 vintage, Jérôme began separating out his oldest villages-level parcel. Boasting true old-vines power, this is always more thickly fruited and more exuberantly spicy than its multi-parcel village counterpart, with greater generosity and length. Its lusciousness, however, does nothing to mask the underlying complexity that sets this cuvée apart.
At first whiff, it is clear that one has left the Nuits appellation with this Chezeaux wine. The fruit here is dark, with regal notes of truffle and lavender. The texture is softer and more fruit-for- ward than his wines from Nuits-Saint-Georges, and the tannins are a bit finer and more forgiving, a complex village level wine that punches way above its weight.
Located almost dead-center in the appellation, Rue de Chaux is perhaps the most quintessentially “Nuits-Saint-Georges” among Chezeaux’s premier crus. Jérôme owns a mere 0.29 hectares in this steep, topsoil-deficient vineyard, and his ever-elegant touch yields a wine of both grace and power. Darkly fruited, dense, and ever-so-slightly brooding, it also offers an enchanting sa- vory-spicy perfume.
This vaunted 1er cru sits on a vein of limestone and marl in southern Vosne. Chezeaux produces a wine that marries the exot- ic spice and succulent fruit of Vosne-Romanée with the mineral power of Nuits-Saint-Georges in hugely appealing fashion.